The NV Extra-Brut Cuvée No. 742 (2014 base) has really opened up since I last tasted it about a year ago. The Pinot is so expressive in the No. 742, a Champagne built on texture and resonance. Dried pear, dried flowers, plum and spice fill out the wine's frame effortlessly, but the 742 truly shines with a bit of air, which seems to accent its freshness. Readers looking for a fine grower Champagne to drink now will find much to like. The blend is 59% Pinot Noir (from Aÿ, Dizy and Hautvillers) and 41% Chardonnay (from Avize and Oiry). Disgorged January 2019. Dosage is 1.5 grams per liter. (Originally published in August 2020)

A creamy and harmonious version, with a fragrant skein of spice that unwinds through flavors of raspberry tart, lemon pastry cream, lime blossom and candied ginger. Lightly mouthwatering on the lingering, spiced finish. Disgorged July 2018. Drink now through 2024. 19,000 cases made, 800 cases imported.